Prague
A hundred spires in golden light
Prague casts a fairytale spell: Gothic spires and baroque domes crowd the skyline, the Vltava slides under statue-lined Charles Bridge, and the castle glows above red rooftops. Cheap beer, cobbled lanes and an air of unhurried mystery make it endlessly wanderable.
How long to stay?
One or two days covers the storybook core: cross Charles Bridge at dawn, watch the Astronomical Clock chime on Old Town Square, then climb to Prague Castle and St. Vitus Cathedral for sweeping rooftop views.
Romantic and slightly bohemian, with a moody, storybook edge. Beer halls are warm and lively, classical concerts fill old churches, and history seeps from every cobblestone. Touristy in the center, but easy to slip somewhere quieter.
Staré Město (Old Town) keeps you in the postcard, steps from the square and bridge. Malá Strana below the castle is romantic and quiet; Vinohrady offers leafy streets, local bars and better value.
Walk Charles Bridge before 8am to have it almost to yourself, before the crowds and caricaturists arrive. The early light over the river and castle is the city at its most magical.
May, June and September bring warm days, blossoming gardens and manageable crowds. December's Christmas markets are enchanting if chilly. Avoid the peak-summer crush if you can.
Václav Havel Airport lies about 15km west of the center, served by airport buses and taxis. Prague is also a major rail hub, with direct trains from Berlin, Vienna and Budapest into the main station.
Czech is the language, though English is common in the center. The currency is the Czech koruna, not the euro, so change money or pay by card rather than overpaying at tourist exchange booths.